On hiking in Kruger

Once again, read at your leisure. I am endlessly excited by animals and realize not everyone is as thrilled with dung piles and animals tracks as I am. But for those of you who are, feel free to read on.

We splashed out for 3 day hikes in the bush which were awesome. Each hike was with a small group led by 2 armed guides. Everyone wears dark clothes, walking silently in single file in tight formation behind the guides. Sometimes the pace was slow and introspective. We would pass large dung piles and inspect them. What animal? Rhino. Which rhino? White rhino. Large dung piles created by the dominant male where he would do his business time and time again, kicking up the dung to proclaim his dominance. Females and submissive males would poop in small piles around the main heap. Nearby was a scratching post, a tree knocked over by an elephant and used by rhinos to rub off ticks and other parasites. Walking on you see a large wallow created by elephants for their mud baths. Observe the difference between white and black rhino tracks. There's a lion track, probably from last night. We also learned about the plants and trees, learning which leaves were good for fever and others for mosquito repellent. You slowly melt into the bush and its rhythms.

Watching the guides was an experience in and of itself. Their knowledge of the bush and their incredibly keen senses was a joy to experience. When the pace picked up, it picked up fast. Spotting a lone male buffalo nearby turns things around very quickly. Suddenly we found ourselves hiding behind a bush, then a different bush and finally the biggest one we could find. The buffalo went into an aggressive urination display and then moved closer. The 2 guides had rifles cocked and loaded. They threw several large branches towards the buffalo while stomping the ground and snorting. We were on the ground behind the bush feeling up close and personal with nature. After continuing to approach, the buffalo eventually wandered off. Yes, this animal is one of the "Big 5" for a reason. They are dangerous and aggressive animals, especially lone bulls. Awesome experience.

Leaving our bush hideout, the guides talked about the concept of sharing space. Aside from predation, animals and humans coexist by giving each other space. When the balance is broken, problems occur. We had crossed the magic border and encroached on the buffalo's space. Simple, timeless concept. On a different hike, we utilized the space idea while tracking rhinos. Once spotting the pair we had followed for an hour, we slowly approached, creeping up bush by bush, watching for signs that we were still in the "OK zone." Once there, we hung out in the shade and watched them, no car, no windows, no barriers. Once again, the feeling that this is exactly where I am supposed to be.